When these cars were originally built, a amp alternator was the largest you could get, if you happened to check the correct box on the order sheet. Today, modern cars often have their smallest alternator sized at amps, and in many cases the minimum is over Attempting to run modern components on an old alternator is a recipe for charging system issues, or worse yet, damaged or failed electrical components. Upgrading your current alternator is one of the easiest bolt-on enhancements you can make to your musclecar, hot rod or even your daily driver. For any enthusiast who is handy with tools this is typically a simple upgrade on most cars. Not to leave you in suspense, we got a hold of Powermaster to get the inside scoop on choosing the correct alternator for specific applications. We cover everything from determining the amp load, choosing an alternator, various finishes and what you should expect to upgrade along with the new alternator.

Chevy GM Chrome ALTERNATOR AMP 1 WIRE (Chehalis) $89

Originally Posted by Mako68 I installed a 1 wire alternator in place of a 3 wire and did not have to use any new wireing. I just used the existing hot lead that ran to my alternator. Since it goes down to my Starter and bolts up to the battery cable there, its like running a direct wire to the battery. Doing it this way , you wouldnt need to run a new wire all the way to your battery.

This alternator may be used on OE GM applications that use a three wire hook up or as a one wire hook up for applications that do not use the conventional hook up. The 10SI internal regulator alt came into use around

Make use of the second factory battery tray and have the install look as factory as possible. These are special crimpers used for “open barrel” terminals. You can search for “delphi crimpers” and find them. The crimpers allow you to make this type of crimp, which is critical. If the crimp is not right, the terminals will not slide into the connector.

Start by installing the battery isolator. GM calls this a “secondary auxiliary relay”. It goes on the firewall, up and left from the brake booster. How you mount it is up to you. If your truck is like mine, then it doesn’t have the needed studs from the factory. Install the relay that controls the battery isolator. It is also placed on the firewall directly above the wire coming from the alternator. Install the fuse holder intended for dual battery use.


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Dec 09,  · CHEVY GM 1 WIRE CHROME ALTERNATOR AMP These are the cool ones with the deep groove pulley and 3 wire hook up so you can use for your stock GM wire harness. *Really bright high polished chrome job for show & street.* Manufacturer warranteed 1 yr. We also stock three wire amp chrome alternators.

Some will ask why? The parts for the Motorola are getting a bit expensive for one thing. The Delco is inexpensive, easy to wire, and self regulated! You will need a Delco Alternator and new pig tail plug in for a GM alternator. The parts store should have the new pig tail as well. The mounting hole diameter is smaller on the Delco as well. If you have a V-8 you can modify the Delco to fit your existing mounting brackets by carefully cutting down the mounting leg with a good hacksaw and finishing up with a file and some light sanding.

You will need to drill the hole out larger as well. This is the easiest way to mount the Delco to a V-8 but not the only way by any means. AMC used several different mounting brackets on the V-8 over the years. Most of these can be modified to accept a Delco right out of the box if you don’t want to modify the alternator as outlined above.

Choosing the Right Alternator for Your Musclecar or Hot Rod

When you come up with total amperage requirements, you can then size the alternator capacity to your total known electrical load. When you go beyond percent, alternator operating temperature becomes excessive, and burnout is inevitable. In stock form, the most you can expect from these old dynamos is amps.

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However, if an EFI system provides improved horsepower, torque, and fuel economy, the company providing such would rule the world. We first met Richards in the Feb. Richards ingeniously packaged the electronic engineering from Ford with a high-flow single-plane manifold, an improved GM MAF sensor, a wiring loom with all the necessary connectors, and a 1, cfm throttle body and at the same time, talked personally with every customer.

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Dual alternators and dual batteries

Low RPM turn on and charge Fits factory applications Low and high current applications Multiple finishes available But now that people are driving their classic cars more often, and upgrading them to be more drivable, they are also adding more electrical components so that driving them is more enjoyable. Some cars also have an air suspension system, meaning the compressor needs to keep that air tank full — and that draws on the electrical system more than ever was intended.

Upgrades to digital ignition boxes and alarm systems also add to the amount of wiring that is added to a vehicle; people are also adding electric cooling fans to replace the mechanical fan. So how do you upgrade an electrical system that was never designed for all of these accessories? Many factory alternators from the classic car era had gauge wires, which are not sufficient to handle higher alternator outputs. One solution to the charging dilemma is to upgrade to a single-wire alternator that puts the power directly to the battery — and only when the engine is running.

High Output Alternator Frequently Asked Questions. I Have 98 Chevy K L Plow Truck w/ Amp Alt Looking to Upgrade Alt to at Least or Bigger? a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up .

While working on my Ranchero , I decided I needed a better alternator and wondered if I could put a GM internally regulated alternator on the car to help improve the charging system performance. They’re good solid units, they are readily available at any parts store in up to 94A outputs, and I’m very familiar with them. I surfed around a bit and found out that swapping a GM 10SI or 12SI series alternator in place of the Ford unit is a pretty straightforward swap, so I decided to do it.

In preparation for the swap, I put all the info I learned into this tech page – the theory being that if I can’t explain it to someone else, I don’t really understand it yet. I already have a page for upgrading a GM charging system with lots of good details and links to other tech resources – both on my site and on other sites. If this swap interests you, I would suggest you read my other pages as well as this page. Mounting Considerations Here’s the two alternators side by side for comparison.

Apologies for the focus in a couple of the pictures, but you get the idea. Front this quick look, we can glean a good number of good things. They are roughly the same size overall and will fit into roughly the same mounting space. The pulley location relative to the front mounting face is the same.


Knowledge of this exclusive design is very important when up-grading the Chevy electrical system. We need to get electrical power from the alternator to the parts—not just charge the battery. At the time of this writing, the popular Chevy main power system is about 40 years old.

Swap out your factory starting and charging parts with an ultra-powerful battery, alternator and starter to get the most out of your Chevy Tahoe

Upgrading your alternator from externally to internally regulated As part of the wiring upgrades on my car, I’m switching from the old 63amp, externally regulated, alternator to a newer style amp, internally regulated alternator hooked up using the 3-wire setup. If you want to run the new alternator as a 1-wire alternator, which most people really don’t think is a good idea on a street car, then the install is easy. The only problem you may see is that you need to rev the engine higher in order to get the alternator to kick into charging mode.

Many companies, such as Chevy2Only or Mad Electrical, offer an adapter you can plug into your unmodified voltage regulator harness that jumpers the wires on the 4-wire regulator plug to allow the car to run properly without the voltage regulator hooked up. Once this adapter is installed all that’s left for you to do is mount the alternator on the motor and run the charging cable from the alternator to your battery. The old 2-wire connector on your old alternator will no longer be necessary and the plug on the back of the newer style alternators is different anyway, so you can’t plug it in without modifying it first.

I’m not going to attempt explaining this, first because the 1-wire setup isn’t street friendly, and second because I didn’t do it this way on my car, so my advice would ring hollow in my own ears. It’s up to you to figure out what to do with the unneeded and dangling alternator pigtail. One nice thing about the alternators advertised as 1-wire alternators is that most of them appear to be capable of being wired up as 1-wire AND 3-wire.

It’s up to you which installation you want to pursue. Since I’m doing the 3-wire, internally regulated alterator conversion, I think I can offer more detailed advice on doing this properly. This will be the second time I’ve attempted this. My first attempt was on a friends 67 Chevy II that hasn’t melted down yet and continues to charge the battery properly more than a year later.

It does require a little bit of knowledge about the wiring harness in your car and some wire splicing skills.

gm 3 wire internally regulated alternator hook up how to